Discover Portugal by motorhome: We travelled from Lisbon to the Algarve in 20 days

Some 18 per cent of the nearly three million motorhome owners in Europe will travel to Portugal this summer, according to Camping-Car Park, the European network of Motorhome Service Areas (ASA).

The country, with 13,000 registered motorhomes, is attracting more and more European tourists who want to travel in this way. They spend an average of €52 per night.

They are mainly Spaniards, French, Italians and Germans who spend at least three weeks touring the country from June to September.

We spent 20 days travelling around Portugal in a motorhome, starting in Lisbon and then along the southwest coast, including the Costa Caparica and Costa Vicentina, and the Algarve, in the south of the country, to show you what it’s like.

The starting point in Lisbon

After more than six hours of travel from Madrid, we arrive in Lisbon to start the route. The entrance to the city is quite chaotic, with a lot of traffic and little patience on the part of the drivers.

If driving a motorhome in big cities is already complicated, here it seems like mission impossible. Parking relatively close to the centre and safely is also an odyssey. In the park4night parking app, an app that every self-respecting motorhomer has, there are many points, but few of them are convincing.

In the end, we settle on a pay-and-display site near the imposing and noisy two-kilometre-long 25 de Abril Bridge, an icon of the city that rises above the Tagus River estuary under the watchful eye of Cristo Rei, the 28-metre-high (110 with the 82-metre-high pedestal) statue of the Redeemer with open arms.

The best way to see the surrounding area is by bike: the Monument to the Discoveries, the Belém Tower (under construction), the Jerónimos Monastery, the historic quarter and the Belem Bakery where you can taste those warm cream pancakes with a little sugar and cinnamon powder.

The centre of Lisbon is also easy to reach by metro or train. It is an open and welcoming city and a melting pot of cultures. Even more so in summer, and the sweltering heat doesn’t stop you from enjoying the place. Many people take a dip in the river to soak up the heat. There is plenty to see and visit.

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The panoramic view of the city from St. George’s Castle is spectacular and strolling through the old town is a delight. You’ll be carried away by the culture and music of Chiado, the most bohemian district with the historic Café a Brasileira, which houses the statue of Fernando Pessoa on its terrace. It is intoxicating.

Its squares, such as Praça do Comercio, the old main port for maritime trade with beautiful views of the Tagus, its cathedral or viewpoints such as Graça or San Pedro de Alcántara are also well worth a visit.

A must-see for most of the almost 19 million tourists who visit the city every year is Tram 28, which crosses several neighbourhoods, winding its way through narrow streets and slopes, or the Elevador de Santa Justa, which connects Baixa with the upper district.

Costa Caparica, Lisbon’s beach

Back on the road again, the idea is to travel along the entire southwest coast of Portugal, starting on the Costa Caparica, 20 minutes from the capital, south of the Tagus estuary.

There are 15 kilometres of golden sandy beaches and cool Atlantic waters, where you can see families, surfers, naturists, locals and foreign tourists.

Praia de São João or Praia Nova are Lisbon’s beaches par excellence, with beach bars, live music and sunset terraces. The further south you go, the more natural and wild it is, as you reach some very large and beautiful stretches of sand.

After a couple of days, the next stop is Setúbal, 50 kilometres from Lisbon. It is surrounded by the Arrábida Natural Park, a protected area with the most spectacular coastline in the country.

Throughout this area, motorhomes are not allowed to stay on the coastline, although during the day, you can park your campervan and enjoy the breathtaking views. This will become a common theme throughout the entire trip along the coast of Vicenza.

One of the most beautiful beaches in Europe, Praia de Galapinhos, with its natural beauty and turquoise waters, is located in this area. The Setúbal region is ideal for itinerant travellers as it combines sea, mountains and authenticity, although parking can be a bit tricky.

From Setubal, you can reach the Troia peninsula by ferry, a stretch of fine white sand, clean, calm waters and plenty of wind. This is a good starting point to begin the route along the Alentejo or Vicentina coast, as it is connected to Comporta, our next stop. This is a popular holiday destination for artists, designers and international celebrities.

Not to be confused with Sines, 55 kilometres further down the coast, an industrial town known for being the birthplace of the explorer Vasco da Gama, the navigator who discovered the sea route to India. Its medieval castle and adjoining museum tell the story of this key figure in the Age of Discovery.

Wild nature and small villages

From Sines, the landscape changes completely, with rugged cliffs, wild beaches and picturesque villages. The first one that grabs you is Porto Covo, a small village of white houses with blue stripes and a quiet atmosphere. It has a strong local flavour, ideal for disconnecting from the urban rhythm.

Its great jewels are its coves nestled between cliffs. Praia da Samoqueira is the most impressive, with rock formations, cliffs and hidden corners. This is a very popular spot with travellers on the road and is ideal for enjoying the sea and the breathtaking scenery. The larger Praia Grande is also worth a visit.

Off the coast you can visit Ilha do Pessegueiro, a historic island with an ancient fortress, by boat.

With the sense that it might surpass everything we’ve seen so far, we reach Praia do Malhão, between Porto Covo and Vila Nova de Milfontes in the municipality of Odemira. Framed by natural dunes, the landscape is unspoilt and breathtaking, with the constant sound of the waves and the ocean wind. This is a surfer’s paradise. It’s like a forgotten corner of the world. Although the sight of two mounted gendarmes reminding visitors not to park near the beach quickly brings you back to reality.

After so much wilderness, Vila Nova de Milfontes presents itself as a more touristy spot. It is a popular destination for the Portuguese who enjoy its quiet river beaches, such as Praia da Franquia, ideal for families, water sports and safe bathing.

From wild cliffs to crowded shores

After some relaxation, it’s time for more excitement at Cabo Sardão, where dramatic cliffs towering 40 to 50 metres high evoke scenes straight out of The Lord of the Rings or Game of Thrones. This is an essential stop on the Vicentine coast where you can see white storks, peregrine falcons, sea deer and other remarkable wildlife.

Another unmissable stop is Zambujeira do Mar, a fishing village that has retained its authentic charm. Its small white houses with blue accents, a traditional cliffside port, and inviting restaurants serving fresh fish all add to its appeal. The town’s wide urban beach offers sweeping views of the Atlantic.

Continuing our descent through southwest Portugal, we come across Praia de Odeceixe, one of the most unique beaches in the country, right on the border with the Algarve. It is situated at the mouth of the Seixe River, which separates the Alentejo from the Algarve.

Here, the meeting of river and sea creates a striking horseshoe-shaped sandbar. One side is washed by ocean waves, the other by calm river waters. At their junction, a playful current forms, delighting children and adults alike as they float downstream. All around, green cliffs rise high above, offering breathtaking views of the place where river and sea become one.

In the western Algarve, in the municipality of Aljezur, we spend a morning at Praia de Monte Clérigo, a very accessible beach at the foot of a small collection of white and pink houses with a seaside feel. In the afternoon, another of the jewels of the Algarve and the Vincentian coast, the beach of Carrapateira or Praia da Bordeira.

More than three kilometres long, it is one of the largest beaches in the Algarve and a favourite destination for surfers due to its constant waves. In fact, the shore warns that it is dangerous for bathers. Before reaching the beach, there is a lagoon of calm water where children play. Behind the sandy area, there are large natural dunes where hundreds of seagulls flutter about.

In this area, there is an abundance of motorhomes and the car parks must be booked in advance otherwise you won’t be able to find a parking space.

“All over the Algarve, there are problems when it comes to parking and spending the night because of the large number of people,” a motorhome camper from Seville warned me, saying that this year, there are more restrictions on spending the night than in the past.

We will witness the tourist overcrowding that, at this time of year, always occurs in the Algarve and we will see that the natural and wild scenery, with spacious and uncrowded beaches of the Vicentine coast, has been left behind to give way to mass tourism.

The end of the world

Cape St. Vincent, one of the most emblematic places in the south of Portugal, is just as touristy. This is one of the most westerly points of continental Europe, considered for centuries as “the end of the world”.

It boasts imposing cliffs over 60 metres high, panoramic views of the open sea and one of the most beautiful sunsets in Europe. Here, the wind blows strongly while dozens of tourists immortalise the moment.

Very close to Cabo de San Vicente is one of the best beaches in this area, Praia do Beliche. It is a secluded and steep cove, protected by high cliffs that give it a warmer microclimate. It is a picture postcard beach. It is accessible via stairs carved into the rock that are easy to descend but costly to climb. Right in the rocks is a wooden beach bar with grilled sardines and grilled chicken.

Mass tourism on the Algarve

Continuing our route through the Algarve, we reach Lagos, a town popular with tourists from all over Europe. A visit to Ponta da Piedade, a rock formation famous for its cliffs, grottoes and turquoise waters, is a must. It is one of the most photogenic coastal landscapes in Europe.

It is, of course, also crowded with tourists seeking shade among the rocks of the crowded cove, whose waters are full of seaweed on our visit.

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Next stop is Portimão, one of the Algarve’s largest towns with a harbour ideal for boat trips along the southern coast. We embark on one to visit the caves and grottoes on a two-hour tour that passes through Algar (Carvoeiro), Praia da Marina, Praia do Carvalho and on to the famous Benagil cave. A skylight here allows sunlight to enter, creating a magical effect inside, illuminating the golden sand and orange walls.

After the visit, a well-deserved swim in the sea just in front, with a dip from the boa,t is our reward. On the way back, the lively Praia da Rocha awaits us.

After 45 minutes, we reach Albufeira, the mecca of tourism in this area. Tranquillity and calm give way to hustle and bustle and mass tourism. The English have mostly taken over this town, which has beautiful beaches, including the urban Praia do Túnel, which is accessed from the old town through a tunnel carved into the rock.

After the storm comes calm in the form of Faro, the Algarve’s quieter, more relaxed capital, with an old town centre surrounded by Moorish and Roman walls. The town is adjacent to the Parque Natural da Rea Formosa, one of Europe’s most important wetland areas with islets, marshes and canals to explore.

Tavira: The unknown jewel of the Algarve

In the last two days, we discovered a real gem of the Algarve: Tavira. Not as renowned as other towns, the town is perfect for a relaxing stop on our road trip. It is historic and elegant with a strong Roman, Islamic and Christian past. Its white houses with gabled roofs, cobbled streets and squares with orange trees give it a very unique air.

One of its most iconic landmarks is the Roman Bridge, a stone footbridge that crosses the river Gilão. The castle and the more than 20 churches scattered throughout the city are also outstanding. Its beaches are paradisiacal and not overcrowded. A particularly enjoyable activity is taking the tourist train to Praia do Barril.

The eight-minute ride, with thousands of crabs waving as they pass through the marshes, is a pleasure for the senses. As soon as we reach the beach on the left-hand side, the anchor cemetery, with more than 200 old anchors, reminds us that this is a beach with history.

They serve as a reminder of the beach’s storied past: from 1841 to 1966, this was an active hub for tuna fishing. When the fishing operations were dismantled, many sailors left their anchors behind, and the train that once transported goods was repurposed for tourists.

The other must-visit beach, Ilha de Tavira, is accessible only by ferry from the city. It’s a true island escape, with miles of white sand and a peaceful atmosphere that rarely feels crowded.

Tavira is, without a doubt, the ideal place to get to know the most authentic Algarve.

After 20 days on the road, we found that the southwest and south of Portugal are perfect for those seeking to combine freedom and nature, especially on the Vincentian coast and the coastal Alentejo. The wild landscape and tranquillity contrast with the hustle and bustle of the Algarve.

This journey, from Lisbon down through remote, unspoiled beaches to the bustling shores of the Algarve, captures the full range of Portugal’s coastal character. It’s the perfect road trip for those looking to combine raw natural beauty with the mobility and spontaneity of life on the road.