Ghent Is Challenging Antwerp as Belgium’s Capital of Cool

With so much of Western Europe overrun by tourists, savvy travelers are turning toward Belgium. Those already familiar with the unsung hero wedged between—and deeply influenced by—France, the Netherlands, and Germany no doubt count it as a favorite destination. Brussels impresses with its grand buildings and has a strong presence as both a financial and political center. Bruges looks like it sprang from the pages of a storybook. Antwerp has a fashion cachet and sparkly diamonds. And then there’s Ghent—a Flemish city in the north with medieval charm, a modern mindset, and far less name recognition.

No longer second (or, err, fourth fiddle) to policy-making Brussels, fairytale Bruges, and stylish Antwerp, Ghent has recently emerged from the shadow of its more notable neighbors. Not exactly an upstart—after all, it’s been around for centuries—this Flemish underdog, built way back in 630, is now forging its own, very cool path. Students account for a quarter of the 265,000-person population. As a younger generation puts its mark on the historic city, fresh energy courses through its cobbled streets.

Riverside bars buzz with undergrads from Belgium and beyond. Perhaps the most surprising badge of its newly minted hipster status—and one that certainly breaks from Flemish tradition—is the plant-forward corner of the food scene, which also includes some Michelin-starred heavy hitters, cozy bistros, and restaurant terraces. With medieval architecture, rich café culture, and a vibrant scene, Ghent is a burgeoning creative powerhouse.

Whether you’re planning a day trip, staying overnight, or carving out a few days to wander, this Ghent guide is packed with can’t-miss classics and fresh additions to the ever-evolving scene.

Where to Stay

Many of us feel nostalgic for the days of snail mail and sweeping postal halls. But what became of these former palaces of letters and packages in the age of e-mail? Some, like Ghent’s historic post office, have found a new lease on life as hotels. Tucked into a corner of the grand neo-Gothic building, 1898 The Post is a first-class revival that doesn’t rely on fanfare. The 38-key boutique hotel trades over-the-top gestures for cozy charm, favoring an intimate reception over an enormous lobby. The marks of its mail-exchange past are everywhere. The rooms—named after stamps, postcards, envelopes, letters, and carriages—feature antique writing desks, rotary phones, built-in bookcases, and framed sketches of the original post office. Even the second-floor honesty bar evokes a vintage postman’s office.

Photo: Tine De Wilde