The Best Black Derbies Are Proof of Life After Sneakers

The Best Black Derbies Are Proof of Life After Sneakers


The downsides? Shell cordovan is a beast to break in, not to mention prohibitively expensive. But I’ve had my pair for almost a decade without a need for repairs, so I don’t expect to need another replacement until I’m about ready to retire.

More Black Derbies We Love

Prada

Brushed Leather Lace-Up Shoes

Prada’s derby has been the exact same shape for years, simply because they got it exactly right the first time. (It’s also been on multiple GQ editor’s wishlists for years.)

Our Legacy

Uniform Parade

Our Legacy’s house derby takes its inspiration from the shape of the Alden’s above, but amps up the punk quotient. At $400 cheaper, you can also wear it a little more recklessly.

Solovair

Hi-Shine Gibson Shoe

Solovair’s Goodyear-welted shoes are still made in the UK in a generations-old factory (that they used to share with Dr. Martens) and represent some the best bang for your buck on the planet.

Morjas

Plain Toe Blucher

Don’t let the cringey missteps of countless other DTC brands color your perception of these Morjas shoes. They’re handcrafted in Spain using old-school techniques, and are simple, handsome, well-made, and well-priced.

The Row

Leather Derby Shoes

Part of the reason the Derby is surging in popularity again is this style from The Row, which notably also boasts a slightly more bulbous toe. Watch this (roomier) space.

Church’s

Shannon Polished Derby

For many deep-pocketed shoe aficionados, the Shannon is such an iconic design that there’s simply no other derby worth considering. If we could, we really would.

Paracia

Mid-Heel Derby

Rising Madrid-based footwear brand Paracia’s mid-heel derby also leans into the roomier, curvier look. There’s also a 7mm heel, to help you reach the height you put on your Hinge profile.

Meermin

Black Silkcalf Blucher

Here’s something nice: Despite being one of the least expensive shoes on this list, Meermin’s blucher is also one of the dressiest. That doesn’t happen often.

Edward Green

Dover Leather Derby

Much like the Shannon, Edward Green’s Dover derby is one of the styles the house has built its name on. Yes, it’s a fortune, but it’s been hand-sewn using a boar’s bristle needle. (And that’s just one of countless exquisite details about its best-in-class manufacturing.)

Officine Creative

Sound 002 Leather Derby

Officine Creative uses a 100-step “Time Machine” process to make its shoes feel imbued with stories from day one. One fun detail? The soles have literal lines of poetry engraved into them.


How We Test and Review Products

Style is subjective, we know—that’s the fun of it. But we’re serious about helping our audience get dressed. Whether it’s the best white sneakers, the flyest affordable suits, or the need-to-know menswear drops of the week, GQ Recommends’ perspective is built on years of hands-on experience, an insider awareness of what’s in and what’s next, and a mission to find the best version of everything out there, at every price point.

Our staffers aren’t able to try on every single piece of clothing you read about on GQ.com (fashion moves fast these days), but we have an intimate knowledge of each brand’s strengths and know the hallmarks of quality clothing—from materials and sourcing, to craftsmanship, to sustainability efforts that aren’t just greenwashing. GQ Recommends heavily emphasizes our own editorial experience with those brands, how they make their clothes, and how those clothes have been reviewed by customers. Bottom line: GQ wouldn’t tell you to wear it if we wouldn’t.

How We Make These Picks

We make every effort to cast as wide of a net as possible, with an eye on identifying the best options across three key categories: quality, fit, and price.

To kick off the process, we enlist the GQ Recommends braintrust to vote on our contenders. Some of the folks involved have worked in retail, slinging clothes to the masses; others have toiled for small-batch menswear labels; all spend way too much time thinking about what hangs in their closets.

We lean on that collective experience to guide our search, culling a mix of household names, indie favorites, and the artisanal imprints on the bleeding-edge of the genre. Then we narrow down the assortment to the picks that scored the highest across quality, fit, and price.

Across the majority of our buying guides, our team boasts firsthand experience with the bulk of our selects, but a handful are totally new to us. So after several months of intense debate, we tally the votes, collate the anecdotal evidence, and emerge with a list of what we believe to be the absolute best of the category right now, from the tried-and-true stalwarts to the modern disruptors, the affordable beaters to the wildly expensive (but wildly worth-it) designer riffs.

Whatever your preferences, whatever your style, there’s bound to be a superlative version on this list for you. (Read more about GQ’s testing process here.)



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