The Best Horsebit Loafers Are the Ultimate Footwear Flex
The Best Lug Sole Horsebit Loafer: Blackstock & Weber Mason Horse Bit Loafer
Blackstock & Weber refers to its Vibram-clad bit loafers as having thrown “snow tires” on a beloved silhouette, and we couldn’t agree more. The chunky Vibram 1757 lug sole makes these flashy bit loafers capable of withstanding just about anything you may throw at them. The golden hue on the hardware is an excellent accent to the grained leather, which will only going to get better with age.
GQ writers Tyler Chin and Gerald Ortiz both own a pair of Blackstock & Weber loafers and have great things to say. The beefy silhouette and rock-solid Goodyear-welted construction instills confidence and we love that they come in so many different colorways and materials. “As diesel as these loafers are, they’re surprisingly comfortable from the get-go. I had no trouble breaking them in,” Ortiz says. The lug sole is hefty and grippy, but we’ve found that sizing can be a bit tricky so it’s worth trying them on in-person if you can.
The Moodboard Horsebit Loafer: Morjas Horsebit Loafer
Pros
- Soft chocolate suede option shines in a sea of black leather
- Handmade in Spain
Cons
- Watch out for rain and stains on the suede
- The leather outsole can take a longer break-in period
If Morjas’ buttery suede loafers look familiar, it’s probably because you’ve seen them on a moodboard or on some menswear influencer. And for good reason. They’re sleek, but not too dainty. The luscious suede pairs oh-so-handsomely with a suit or a pair of jeans, and the quality is great, especially considering the price point.
GQ Style Editor Yang-Yi Goh says that his Morjas loafers have a sleeker profile, which gives them a dressier appeal than other loafers. And while the materials and craftsmanship are seriously impressive, sizing isn’t so straightforward. They tend to run a bit large, but it’s best to reach out to Morjas to get the most accurate advice.
The All-American Horsebit Loafer: Rancourt Horsebit Loafer
Rancourt & Co.
Horsebit Loafers
Pros
- Handmade in the USA
- Water-resistant
- Four width options available
Cons
- Production time can take a while since these are handmade
Maine has long been home to some of the best leather-shoe-making legends in the union, including L.L. Bean, Quoddy, Eastland, and Rancourt. Among that esteemed crowd, no one’s crafting horsebit loafers quite like Rancourt.
These shoes are built with an almost obsessive level of care: hand-burnished calfskin leather, a nickel-plated brass bit imported from Japan, a leather outsole that’s oil-treated for added water and abrasion resistance, and a handsewn moc construction. Every stitch is sewn right here in the U.S. You could stroll through a Nor’easter and still look ready for cocktails.
The Luxe Horsebit Loafer: George Cleverley Colony Horsebit Leather Loafer
George Cleverley
Colony Horsebit Leather Loafers
Pros
- Leather outsole for durability
- Should literally last a lifetime
Cons
- An elongated silhouette that’s more dressy than casual
- Stiff at first, and takes time to break in
George Cleverley has been making shoes since 1958, outfitting everyone from Winston Churchill to Elton John to Daniel Day-Lewis. The British shoemaker is known for a sleek, almond-toed silhouette, hand-stitched rolled aprons, and leather soles polished to a shine that will blind your loudest haters. There’s still that classic gold-tone horsebit detail, but this version keeps the rest of the shoe clean, for a feel that’s more Savile Row than casual Friday. These are real gentlemen’s loafers—act (and dress) accordingly.
Plus 4 More Horsebit Loafers We Love
What’s the History of the Horsebit Loafer?
First off, no: a horse didn’t wear these shoes.
Horsebit loafers get their name from equestrian culture, not equestrian footwear. In 1953, Aldo Gucci (eldest son of Gucci founder Guccio Gucci) revolutionized the loafer game by adding a metal snaffle bit—a rounded double ring and bar—across the vamp of a sleek leather loafer. It was a stylish nod to a horse’s bridle and bit, and the world of footwear hasn’t looked back since.
Horsebit loafers quickly trotted into elite closets everywhere, worn by Hollywood legends like Clark Gable and Fred Astaire, Italian industrialists, and Wall Street big shots (where they became known by finance bros as “deal sleds”). For some, they’re an old-money symbol of understated wealth and European flair; for others, a bit of status-y style.
How to wear them? Pair with a piqué polo and white jeans for Riviera vibes, or try full “go-go gadget” with a trench coat over a suit and tie. Whether you’re vacationing in Capri or closing deals on Madison Avenue, horsebit loafers always bridge the gap between formal and casual.
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